The term “haricot beans” can refer to a variety of small, white dried beans from the Phaseolus genus that cook quickly and can be interchanged in recipes. Haricot beans of the highest quality are uniform in color, texture, and size. They are wrinkle-free and discoloration-free, with an oval or kidney shape and a white to cream color rather than a light brown color. Fresh haricots can be sold in their shells, which should be brown and relatively dry when picked, but never moldy.
Large, kidney-shaped beans (also known as cannellini or fagioli beans), medium-sized oval specimens (also known as great northern beans), and small, pea-sized roundish beans (also known as navy beans, Boston beans, or pearl haricots) are the three main types of haricot beans. All of these beans are quick to cook and soften in about an hour. They all have light-colored, tender skins that hold their shape after cooking and produce a mild, nutty flavor. Haricots have a tendency to absorb the flavors of the foods they are cooked with. In soups, baked beans, and salads, as well as traditional European dishes like pasta e fagioli or ragouts, any of these three types can be substituted for another.
When selecting dried haricot beans, look for specimens that are all the same size and shape, as very large beans will cook more slowly than small ones in the same pot, resulting in a crunchy dish. Avoid beans that are broken or deformed, as they will not cook properly. Haricot beans should have smooth, wrinkle-free off-white to cream-colored skin with no dark or chalky spots, a consistent size and shape, and few to no rocks or dirt. Older beans, especially those that are darker or wrinkled, can take a long time to cook, even if presoaked before boiling.
Fresh haricot beans can be found at farmer’s markets and specialty grocery stores. They can be sold loose or in their pods, which should be papery and light brown in color. Avoid beans in pods that have dark mildew speckles or fuzzy mold growing on them, because the mold on the outside can affect the quality of the seeds inside. The beans themselves will resemble their dried counterparts in appearance, but will be larger and have more translucent skins. Fresh beans cook faster than dried beans, but they can still be used in the same recipes.